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LFWM debrief: A new take on tailoring

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This weekend saw London Fashion Week Men’s return to the capital, kickstarting the global fashion season.

As proven in the past, London creates a pretty unique environment that fosters a real range of offerings, from streetwear influenced by sports and skating through to high-end fine tailoring.

Whilst these vastly different aesthetics have been able to successfully co-exist across the catwalks at LFWM, the lines between the two are becoming increasingly blurred. A manipulation of traditional tailoring was commonplace across London’s AW18 shows, evolving to address a modern, dynamic consumer – it’s something that should be considered one of the key takeaways of the week.

This new take on tailoring is something that WGSN’s menswear team have been reporting on and anticipating throughout 2017,  from consumer attitudes towards tailoring to street tailoring as an emerging trend.

After some frenetic show-hopping from us this weekend, here are the LFWM standouts nailing a new take on tailoring.

 

Alex Mullins

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Mullins channelled a new approach to tailoring through the concept of the left and right hand sides of the brain. The left functions of the brain- logical, systematic and mechanical, were balanced with the right- imaginative, chaotic and spontaneous.

The result was a relationship between street and smart; the ‘left’ side a series of tailored looks in muted tones with the ‘right’ represented in tie dye and smashed graphics.

The overall effect didn’t contrast the two sides but rather showed the relationship and overlap between them, giving the tailoring a contemporary edge.

Pronounce

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Presented by GQ China at LMFW, Pronounce set to explore a fusion of Eastern and Western cultures; a theme that was particularly apparent in their tailoring techniques.

Traditional Western three-dimensional tailoring and the subsequent classic methods were integrated with Mao suit sewing techniques. The tailoring was also refreshing in it its use of fabrics, from wool and leather to quilted cotton and TPU.

 

Tourne de Transmission

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The Tourne de Transmission show took the double-breasted jacket a step further by playing with proportions.

In over-sizing them, Tourne’s Graeme Gaughan made the double-breasted feature more exaggerated, creating an almost wrap-around effect. The result is starkly different to more fitted, traditional tailoring but feels appropriate for modern streetwear.

Stefan Cooke

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Stefan Cooke, who graduated from Central Saint Martins just last year, had his catwalk debut at the prestigious MAN show this LFWM. The use of digital and dye-sublimation printing techniques  gave his collection a technological edge, whilst the muted tones and monochromes ensured Cooke had created seasonally appropriate, wearable menswear.

It was his exploration of pattern cutting and silhouettes that provided his individual take on tailoring, diamond panel cut-out trousers that opened and adjusted when walked in.

Want more key takeaways from LFWM or more insight into menswear and tailoring? Become a subscriber and head here.

 

 

 

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  • Tibor Balazs

    A complete emasculation and deconstruction of men. Who would wear anything even close to this other than gay men. Is this where the marked headed to? I doubt it and pretty sure the orders received for these so called designs will reflect that. It’s time for you to stop the elaborate explanations of the unexplainable and start to lay the harsh criticism where it belongs. Shame on you.

    • Jay McCauley Bowstead

      Perhaps an exploration of what it means to be a man, but why equate this with “emasculation”? No one is going to cut your balls off! In fact, no one is going to make you wear these clothes at all, but they do represent some new options for both straight and gay men (for men in general irrespective of their sexuality). I find it a bit peculiar that you find this evolution so challenging: it’s intriguing that your fear of difference manifests itself in such a bizarrely Freudian manner.

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