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Feb 23, 2015
By Theresa Yee
Our beauty team went backstage at London Fashion Week to talk to the hairstylists, make-up artists and manicurists who created the looks. Here are our highlights from Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Barbara Casaola, Christopher Kane and Huishan Zhang.
The brief at Christopher Kane this season was to create a look that was inspired by nudity and life drawing. Lucia Pieroni, using NARS Cosmetics, translated the designer’s inspiration by producing a make-up look that focused on gorgeous real skin and handsome yet tough brows. “It’s beautiful, radiant, nude skin with a strong eyebrow,” explained Pieroni. “It gives the feel of a still-life drawing.”
Brows were brushed up and filled in with a shade darker than the hair colour. Triple X Lip Gloss was painted onto the brows to create a shiny, spikey effect. Copacabana Illuminator was applied onto the brow bone, cheekbones, bridge of the nose and forehead. On the cheeks she used Multiples in Malibu and Maui to create a flushed look. A gold highlighter called Hollywood Land Soft Touch Shadow Pencil was applied to the top of the eye. Finally, lips were left natural with Stick Concealer blotted onto the mouth to fade out the pinkness and finished with Bianca SPF Lip Treatment.
Val Garland for NARS Cosmetics created a graphic black lined eye teamed with beautiful polished skin at Erdem.
Garland applied gel liner onto the lids and kohl liner on the inner waterline using three key eye products: Eye Paint in Black Valley, Minorque Kohliner (new launching in Fall 2015) and Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto. Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser was applied onto the skin and Stick Concealer to areas where needed. Brows are brushed and filled in and lips were coated in a soft tint of Bianca Pure Sheer SPF Lip Treatment. Lashes were left uncurled and without mascara for a modern look.
Over at hair Anthony Turner using Bumble and bumble created a very wearable low ponytail. He used a new product called Surf Infusion – which he described as a product that combines a surf spray with a serum – on the hair, focusing particularly on the crown. Hair was blow dried smooth and parted into a side-parting. The crown of the hair was then teased for a slept-in-the-night-before look. Bobby Pins were visible on the head, with blonde hair models displaying black hair pins. Classic Hairspray was used to finish the look.
Val Garland created a sophisticated, well-groomed yet simple look at Peter Pilotto with a swipe of toffee cashmere liner in MAC’s Redhead on the upper lid. Skin was athletic with just a touch of blush in Tint while lips were balmed for a girl she described as ‘handsome’.
For hair, Anthony Turner for L’Oreal Professionel was motivated by one of the main features of the collection – a graphic line inspired by childhood toy racing tracks. Extracting this concept, he created an androgynous look to offset the super feminine designs, with a mannequin, boy-like hair line.
Set in a really low parting on one side, hair was drawn across the face in an undulating line – going down, then up, then down again – to represent a racing track. Moved into place using the hands, hair was super malleable thanks to an abundance of product including Pli, TechniArt Full Volume Extra mousse, Wild Stylers mineral powder and Infinium hairspray. Blow dried vertically for a super sleek finish, texture was added just at the end for a boy meets girl finish.
Adam Reed for L’Oreal Professionel created a look called UnGrunge – a luxurious take on the grunge texture. Saturating hair with Pli, it was then blow dried gently with a subtle dipped wave for a more relaxed look. Infinium Extra Strong hairspray was applied to crepe paper and pinned to the front of the hair around to the ears –when removed; it created an indentation in the hair similar to that created by a hairband. The final look was glossy and healthy, well-conditioned with just a hint of sparkle, but managed to err away from being too luxurious.
For the nails, Essie polish in a pillar box red First Dance was applied to short square nails. With a blue undertone, the colour was designed to stand out next to the fresh, subtle and chic make-up look.
Make-up artist Alex Box for MAC Cosmetics created a 90’s, nonchalant girl, where make-up was raw and skin peeked through. Washer foundation was applied and then removed in certain places so the skin could still be seen, and hands were used instead of brushes so the products could melt into the skin. Eyes were washed in a gentle tea stained cream and cheeks popped in a Posey Cream Blush. Subtle contouring was executed with the Brown Work Paint Pot.
Ali P for Bumble and bumble was inspired by the idea of a girl on holiday, who transitions from the beach straight into the evening with ease. Creating a style designed to look as though the girl had done it herself, hair was effortless and natural – simply twisted into a low hung ponytail and pinned in to place.
To start, ends were made wet with water and allowed to dry naturally after being rubbed through with Styling Crème. Once dry, the ends were loosely twisted and held in place by elastic and a pin – a fresh, easy, soft and slightly textured look. Just before the walk, hair was spritzed with Surf Spray to enhance the texture and add a slight shimmer when caught in the light.
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