With a collection that was both functional and theatrical, Alber Elbaz has created a line new and old fans will love. WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring reports
Paris: In a city known for its opulence and craftsmanship, there is an underlying trend that has appeared across many collections. It is the need for cross-relevance – real clothes and creative theatre. Alber Elbaz achieved this with a show that not just stayed true to house codes but he delivered a youthful collection that will appeal to a younger, dynamic audience.
Here was a carefully curated potpourri of accessible fashion in a lineup of colour appropriate vignettes. The opening look of black and white rendered up classics that were given a subversive twist in mismatched pairings – oversized tailored jackets, beautiful white shirts over faux frayed edges of tailored deconstructed items that bore white basting stitches in an undone look.
Then followed the colour in bright and clashing reds, purple and cobalt. Easy fluid jersey dresses captured the moment with what looked like skin revealing shapes but were actually draped over nude coloured foundation pieces. There were allover embroideries of sparkling dimensions and fabulous collaged dresses made up of different laces all in the colour of the moment – black. A collection that will appeal to many old and new Lanvin devotees.
Theme: A manifesto of reality and sparkling theatre.
Key items: White shirts, asymmetrically pleated skirt, pleated short skirts, jersey sylph-like dresses, sartorial jackets, fluid frilled dresses, sleeveless jacket, tailored dresses, utility jacket.
Colour: Black, white, red, purple, pistacchio, purple, cobalt.
Print and pattern: Scribbles, prints of shoes, bags and “Lanvin Faubourge St. Honore”.
Trims and materials: Basting, organza, tweed, cotton shirting, silk, paillettes, leather, bows, metallic gold.
Footwear and accessories: Two-tone leather bags and shoes, scrunched ankle boots, knee high boots.
PFW FIX: The latest shows. The most detailed catwalks reports. Every. Single. Picture. From. Every. Single. Show. Sound good? Join WGSN.
NEED TREND INFO FAST? Check out WGSN’s YouTube for our latest episodes of Trend Minute.