Paris: Alber Elbaz claims to design with the same theme in mind each season – beautiful clothes for sophisticated women – but his magic is in consistently realizing such a lofty goal and making it look effortless. The collection opened with airy looks in earthy taupes, with weightless pleated skirts that floated as models walked. Simple tees and leather harnesses grounded the ethereal pieces. The wind-whipped look continued with a sheath that featured a swath of plum pleated silk that tangled around the body. The designer introduced more structure with a series of skirt suits paired with matching leggings and strappy flats – a chicly modern new office option. Like the Milan and London designers, Elbaz also played with neon, using hot pinks and acid yellows for scuba-tight Fortuny-pleated separates. The show closed with the piled-on embellishments that have become his signature; the last look, worn by model Freja, was made up of a pair of slashed shorts festooned with silver slats and styled with a cropped jacket featuring fluttery fabric cutouts and metal discs. Though intensely sophisticated, the Lanvin woman still knows how to have fun.

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