Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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REMEMBERING THE EIGHTIES
Paris: The first look said it all. The tiered party dress looked as if it had been borrowed from Molly Ringwald’s wardrobe from Pretty in Pink, and the chain and pearl slogan necklaces recalled Like-a-Virgin-era Madonna. It was an eighties revival, Lanvin style. Though full skirts, a jolting hot pink tone, and power shoulders were direct references to the decade, designer Alber Elbaz mixed in current details to balance it all out. Dense tiers of organza made for topiary-like tops and skirts – at once glamorous and cheeky, while simple sheaths were enhanced with elegant, asymmetrical gathering. Jeweled insects descended on a few of the final looks, again underscoring Elbaz’s playfulness. The aforementioned necklaces were emblazoned with vocabulary that captured the carefree feeling of the eighties, such as “Cool,” “Happy,” and “Love,” but some read “Help,” suggesting darker forces at play. There was certainly an underlying seriousness to all the ebullience, which made the pieces all the more interesting and desirable. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / Long layers / Hourglass / Soft volume / Boxy / A-line
Color: Black / Midnight blue / Ivory / Nude / Hot pink / Tan / Silver / Rust / Charcoal / Golden yellow / Burgundy / Bordeaux / Dusty blue / Watery blue / Saturated teal
Key Items: Fit-and-flare dresses / Full skirts / Ruffled shirts / Fur coats / Insect-embellished separates
Materials: Cloque / Double-faced crepe / Stretch silky jersey / Buttery leather / Velvet / Taffeta / Organza / Lustrous charmeuse / Lace / CDC / Heavy duchesse satin / Plush fur / Wool suitings / Tweed / Hammered satin
Print + Pattern: Menswear plaids / Large-scale florals / Butterflies / Scarabs
Details + Trim: Gathering / Pleats / Tiers / Insects appliqués made from jewels and paillettes / Attached nude jersey long-sleeved tees / Broad or gathered shoulders / Bustier details / Flap pockets
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled tiaras / Multi-chain and pearl necklaces with slogan pendants / Fur scarves / Long leather or fabric gloves / Chunky bangles / Jeweled insect pins / Medium-width belts with and without slogan buckles / Chain-strap bags / Top-handle bags / Boxy clutches / Flat oxfords / Bow loafers / T-strap heels / Ankle-strap pumps
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