Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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FLAT OUT POWERFUL
Paris: Alber Elbaz often uses the tuxedo as a starting point for his work at Lanvin, spinning the look into a strong and feminine must-have by reinventing it each season. The tuxes he presented for S/S 13 were sharp with a whiff of the 80s, comprised of peaked shoulder jackets paired with high waist tapered trousers. 90s Donna Karan showed up as well, in the form of asymmetric leotards and jumpsuits, while an obsession with the body came via clever trompe l’oeil torso statues printed on square shift dresses. Flattened constructions were Elbaz’s most directional message for Spring, with rectangular kimono tunics cinched by side tabs or skirts tied with pressed origami bow belts. Even heavy crystal embellishments for evening were machined and oblong. Finding power in right angles, the collection triumphed by infusing straight lines with a womanly magic.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Tapered & triangular / Slim / Asymmetric / Square
Color: Black / White / Gold / Grey / Navy / Cappuccino / Champagne / Teal / Chartreuse / Plum / Emerald / Cranberry / Hot pink / Rust
Key Items: Peaked shoulder blazers / Sleeveless tux vests / Tapered trousers / Bodysuits / Halter dresses / Flat shift dresses / Sequined jumpsuits / Boxy sequined jackets / Tuxedo dresses / Asymmetric cocktail frocks
Materials: Satin / Stretch jersey / Chiffon / Lurex / Tulle / Leather
Print + Pattern: Photocopied torso prints
Details + Trim: Contrast tabs / Peaked shoulders / Asymmetry / Contrast lapels / Square beading / Ribbing / Slits / Stiff kimono sleeves / Accordion folds / Oversized flat bows
Accessories + Footwear: Aggressive ankle strap pumps / Corset belts / Chain bolo necklaces / Origami bow belts / Minimalist strappy sandals / Cuff bracelets / Molded metal collars / Boxy chain strap shoulder bags / High heeled platform cowboy boots / Slim clutches / Spherical perfume bottle evening bags
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