Paris: During his ten years at Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has honed a special blend of opulent glamour that pits nostalgia against modernity. His F/W 12 show opened with a breathtaking series of sculpted dresses and sets in brilliant monochromes. An hourglass silhouette prevailed; even the designer’s signature goddess drapery was anchored to a structured, shapely sheath. Gravity-defying peplums were created from bouncy fabrics, some embossed to mimic cable knits. A lustrous silk dress was enlivened by a watercolor floral print that was overpainted with a few spontaneous brushstrokes. For evening, there were embellished frocks, some with lace appliqués, some bejeweled, some emblazoned with Dali-esque pins. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Hourglass / Lean / Fit-and-flare / Cylindrical

Color: Teal / Grape / Amber / Klein blue / Crimson / Pumpkin / Black / Inky navy / White / Gold / Emerald / Fuchsia

Key Items: Shapely sheath dress / Round-shouldered coat / Knee-length pencil skirt / Lace-appliquéd cocktail dress

Materials: Neoprene / Felted wool / Embossed-laminated coating / Dyed fur / Duchess satin / Striated brocade / Iridescent silk faille / Pleated nylon-silk gazar / Lace

Print + Pattern: Over-painted floral / Cabbage rose motif

Details + Trim: Lace Appliqué / Ruffled necklines / Peplums / Giant jewels

Accessories + Footwear: Dali’s surreal lips and eye-shaped brooches / Outsized estate jewelry and parure sets / Wildcat belt buckes / Ankle-strap heeled sandal / Ankle boot / High-shaft boot


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