Kris Van Assche

Paris: As an ersatz comment on the polarization of the economic classes, Kris Van Assche used the runway to merge the uniforms of the working class and the executives. The result was a utilitarian take on a number of archetypes, from the factory worker in his matched set baggy trousers and thick twill jacket, or the office drone in his skinny tie and white button up. The juxtaposition worked best when Assche created hybrid items, like a slim blazer with an asymmetrical buckled uniform panel, or cotton overalls layered over checked suiting. Other standout innovations included a boxy nylon bomber padded to look like a flak jacket, while ribbed oversize knits belted at the waist softened the collection’s severe tone. Assche may have explored military regiments this season at Dior, but with his own collection he called for workers of the world to unite. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Boxy / Fluid

Color: Black / White / Shark grey / Cobalt blue / Heather grey

Key Items: Cotton overalls / Small-collar button downs / Silk bomber jackets / Cropped fluid trousers / Padded flight jackets / Dolman sleeve cowl neck sweaters / Open cardigans / Slim blazers / Twill workshirts / Padded military vests

Materials: Satin / Twill / Cotton /Ribbed cashmere knits / Nylon / Silk

Print + Pattern: Checks / Windowpane grids

Details + Trim: Quilting / Contrast collars / Zippers / Ribbing / Straps / Buckles

Accessories + Footwear: Skinny silk ties / Skullcaps / Pointed toe combat boots / Thick leather belts / Clear safety-style eyeglasses / Patterned silk pocket squares / Leather tote bags / Large nylon backpacks

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