Jan 04, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
A dark and directional interpretation of military uniforms informed Kris Van Assche’s F/W 10 collection. After being one of the first to successfully introduce active influences to the runway over the last two seasons, the Belgium designer warmed up his assortment with more luxurious fabrics while still maintaining his trademark easy silhouette. Pleated pants were made from Navy-grade melton wool, offering an interesting contrast of sturdy fabric and a slightly dandy-ish shape, while merino wool shirt jackets were detailed with cargo pockets and soft epaulets. The semi-sheer knits were still there, this time worn with drop-crotch nylon pants and combat boots. Dark plaids reminded many of the attendees of early grunge, especially when styled with knit beanies and boots. Van Assche constantly experiments with fabric, function and fit, and the results are refreshing and directional for much of the men’s market.
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