Kinder Aggugini

: The tug-of-war between refinement and rebellion is shaping up to be a recurring motif in Kinder Aggugini’s work, an aesthetic he describes as “Sid Vicious meets Coco Chanel.” This season, the unlikely pairing unraveled in a coming-of-age story that followed Aggugini’s schoolgirl through her volatile teen years. Ensembles vacillated between precious floral-printed numbers and punkish pieces studded with moto details, while others had elements of both. At times, the collection veered on the too-literal, especially with the questionable styling choices (books balanced on heads, neon-streaked eyes); and the deliberate DIY aspects like raw edges and patched-together linings were, perhaps, too clumsily constructed. Aggugini seems to be a natural romantic, and there was plenty to admire when he dropped the storyline and just made pretty clothes. Silky dropped-waist frocks had just enough ease and elegance, and 40s-inspired sheaths printed with dissipating florals perfectly balanced ladylike polish with teenage angst. – Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Dropped waist / Fit ‘n’ flare

Color: Shocking pink / Neon green / Flame red / Yves Klein blue / Olive green

Key Items: Drop-waisted dress / Color-blocked motorcycle jacket / Tuxedo jacket / 40s sheath / Mesh tank / Trench dress / Kimono dress

Print + Pattern: Dissipating florals / Bordered scarf prints

Materials: Washed silks / Leather / Taffeta / Mesh

Details + Trim: Peter Pan collars / Raw edges / Studs / Metal zippers / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Color-blocked booties

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