Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s men’s debut for Kenzo was just as timely and cool as the duo’s assortments in their destination boutique, Opening Ceremony. Shown in one of Paris’ old train repair stations, the collection was a smart fusion of tailored clothing, activewear and playful pattern. Inspired by the duality of commuters’ lives, novel contrasts like quilted vests under crisp suits and nylon blousons paired with creased trousers made for a jubilant showing that was both sophisticated and fun. Medallion prints on apparel and footwear added a quirky pop, while industrial-driven box plaids for shirt-jackets and hats injected a techno dimension. Witty, gadget-like pendants and green iridescent lace-ups underscored the irreverent, young take on the label. Before the show, Leon told the press, “A big influence was when the internet became a big thing… it changed how business people dressed, especially younger people. All of a sudden there were these guys who had just graduated from college but were making millions.” The youthful spirit of the designers was perfectly expressed in remixed classics made desirable for a new generation.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Burgundy / Orange / Fluorescents /  Grey / Beige / Olive / Blue / Chartreuse

Key Items: Fishtail parkas / High-gorge suits / Utility shirt-jackets / Blousons / Creased tailored trousers / Raglan sleeve overcoats / Knit turtlenecks / Patterned crewneck sweaters

Materials: Leather / Denim / Jersey / Suede / Nylon / Space-dyed wool yarns

Details + Trim: Mini paisley motifs / Small point collars / Pieced construction / Creases / Elastic waistbands on jackets / Raglan sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Felt cycling hats / Plastic rim sunglasses / Color-blocked sneakers / Hikers / Utility carryalls in vivid colors / Conversational pendants on cord

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