Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have referenced Asia in previous collections for Kenzo. Japanese tigers appeared for S/S 13 and returned for Pre-Fall, but this season, the designers opted for a more luxurious inspiration – the opulent temples of India, Nepal, and China. The theme proved excellent fodder for the label’s signature prints. Leon and Lim started out with simple geometrics, then added swirling filigree and shapes drawn from stone religious carvings. The most remarkable motif was the third eye, which evoked mysticism, as well as a touch of youthful cheekiness. Though the prints were the main focus (as they always are at Kenzo), the designs were thoughtful and consistent with the theme. The designers reinforced the Asian-inspired prints by using kimono sleeves, self-belts, wrap closures, and origami folding. This appealing offering was Leon and Lim’s best yet, proving that they are becoming increasingly confident as designers, in addition to being successful retailers. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Rounded / A-line / Boxy on top / Long and lean
Color: Black / Gold / Asian red / White / Periwinkle / Grey / Yves Klein blue / Royal purple / Midnight blue / Mustard / Orange
Key Items: Third eye sweatshirt / Rounded jackets / Wrap skirts / Kimono jackets / Printed pants and dresses
Materials: Matte wool / Gilded jacquard / Lamé / Lacquered crackled synthetic leather / Cloqué / Cotton shirtings / Lurex yarns / Shearling / Printed silks / Sweatshirt jersey / Iridescent organza / Brocade
Print + Pattern: Scallops / Geometrics / Temple carving motifs / Third eyes / Lotus flowers
Details + Trim: Kimono sleeves / Self-belts / Origami folding / Gathering / Wrap closures / Inverted pleats / Contrast trim and sleeves / Rounded sleeves / Curved plackets
Accessories + Footwear: Contrast brow sunglasses / Sculptural gold earrings, bracelets, and rings / Open-toe ankle boots / Open-toe mules
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