Paris: After several seasons at Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have zeroed in on a number of successful strategies that have revived the aging house. Bright colors are one, which were plentiful again for S/S 13, as are the animal motifs that are now a signature element of the collection. Tropical prints also ran throughout, this time inspired by Southeast Asian jungles and treated with blurring and digitizing effects for an interesting surveillance allusion. The intarsia knit leopard sweaters so popular last season were reworked via embroidered big cats cleverly hidden within a pattern as if they were stalking their prey (i.e. the rabid fans of this cult item). Other standouts included boxy leather jackets with pattern insets, relaxed matched sets and cargo jumpsuits, gear for an urban safari that will surely be fully booked. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Layered / Relaxed & baggy / Round / Off the shoulder / Boxy / Fit & flare

Color: White / Ice blue / Khaki / Olive / Teal / Sage green / Icy mint / Tropical green / Camel / Canary yellow / Apricot / Safety orange / Cherry

Key Items: Fluid trousers / Bustier tops / Zip away utility jackets / Jumpsuits / Matched sets / Leather jackets with inset pattern panels / Intarsia knit sweaters / Fit & flare dresses

Materials: Silk / Satin / Twill / Nylon / Snakeskin / Spongy leathers / Textured poplin / Intarsia knits

Print + Pattern: Digitized tropical prints / Abstracted animal prints

Details + Trim: Metallic piping / Pleating / Cutouts / Trapunto stitching / Zippers / Cargo pockets / Balloon sleeves / Embroidery

Accessories + Footwear: Lion pendants / Hammered cuff bracelets / Snakeskin belts / Satchel bags / Slouchy gaiter boots / Utility boots / Strappy printed pumps / Boxy clutches with side handles / Neon tipped sunglasses / Panther chokers / Patterned slingback heels


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