Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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THE MIGHTY JUNGLE
New York: The jungle has played a large role in the history of the house of Kenzo. Founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique, opened in Paris in 1970, was named Jungle Jap, and many of the signature prints he produced during his career featured jungle-dwelling flora and fauna. Current designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim decided to return to the jungle, literally and figuratively, this season. The duo spent time in the jungles of East Asia gathering inspiration for their collection. They borrowed the leopard print from the clouded leopard, which can be found only in Asia. Jungle tigers boxed with one another on a print used for boxy shifts and silky button-up tops. The utility details found on clothing made for jungle treks also made their way into the collection. Flap pockets, zippers and drawstrings appeared for jackets and, less conventionally, for skirts and dresses, giving each a billowy volume. Leon and Lim are a golden team, what with their influential Opening Ceremony boutiques and endless collaborations; it seems they’ve brought their magic to Kenzo. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Billowy / Boxy
Color: Hot pink / Red / Navy / Olive / Cream / Khaki / Rust / Sunny yellow / Mustard / Black
Key Items: Utility jackets / Drawstring skirts and dresses / Leopard print separates / Tiger shift
Materials: Twill / Jacquard / Nylon blends / Silk CDC / Denim / Melange yarns / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Clouded leopard / Boxing tigers / Ombré / Geometrics / Texture prints
Details + Trim: Drawstrings / Flap pockets / Zippers / Piecing / Quilting
Accessories + Footwear: Plastic brow sunglasses / Barrel bags / Platform hiking boots / Platform printed sandals
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