Paris: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s second collection for Kenzo was as fervently anticipated as their first, with the F/W 12 presentation as much of a sure thing as possible in fashion. As expected, their work was universally saleable, a spot-on catalog of wearable silhouettes energized with a creative and upbeat palette. Oscillating between flirtatious fit-and-flare ensembles and more serious long and lean looks, the designers gave free reign to both texture and pattern. Space-dyed knits were embroidered with logo graphics, and silks came printed with everything from grapevines and basket weaves to stripes and zig-zags. Texture appeared in the form of olive tweeds, burgundy velvet, knit sleeves and fur collars, cozy touches which furthered the accessible and playful mood. Leon and Lim’s extensive talents tend to apply to daywear more than evening, and Fall’s dressy satin pajamas suffered from a surfeit of volume, while shiny jacquard cocktail dresses were a bit too stiff.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Fit-and-flare / Long / A-line / Boxy

Color: Olive / White / Heather grey / Chartreuse / Black / Navy / Yellow / Burgundy / Forest green / Cobalt / Emerald / Sage / Apricot / Teal / Fuchsia

Key Items: Simple silk t-shirts / Space-dyed sweaters / Two-tone wool overcoats / Pleated miniskirts / Fitted suiting / Cropped trench coats / Silk minidresses / Motorcycle jackets / Pencil skirts / High-waist floor-length skirts / Button-up blouses

Materials: Silk / Intarsia knits / Wool / Cashmere / Felt / Space-dyed knits / Satin / Velvet / Leather / Tweed / Jacquard

Print + Pattern: Zig-zag patterns / Logo graphics / Tile prints / Grapevine prints / Plaid / Geometrics / Stripes / Basketweave patterns

Details + Trim: Pleating / Oversized collars / Graphic embroidery / Asymmetry / Peplums / Knit sleeves / Epaulettes / Self-belts / Fur collars / Brass buttons / Standup collars

Accessories + Footwear: Tweed ankle boots / Enamel earrings / Miniature box bags / Two-tone loafers / Barrel bags / Portfolio cases / Combat boots / Corset belts / Leather gloves / Hard clutches / Enameled walnut jewelry / Riding caps


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