May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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ROCK & ROSE
New York: For her 14th showing in New York, Karen Walker followed in her tradition of musical muses, this season tapping Siouxsie Sioux. The New Zealand-based designer, known for her playful original prints and fondness for retro rock ‘n’ roll titled the collection New Rose, inspired by the British punk rocker’s “mix of utility and romance.” Case in point, the collection’s key print: “When we bring in a floral, it’s got that twist to it, so this one’s got that dribbly paint,” the designer told Vogue Australia in a preview. Walker’s signature layered looks featured dramatic oversize flannel trench coats, neoprene filigree skirts, nonchalantly-tied wrap dresses and graphic-print sweatshirts. Her past few collections have been heavy on the quirky-cute factor, but this season a cooler, tougher, more easy-going girl emerged thanks to an earthier color palette and some ultra-relaxed, boyish tailoring. Fret not—there was still quilted, baby pink micro floral pieces and glitter sunglasses to please those with a sweeter tooth. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Oversize / Utilitarian / Relaxed Tailoring / Tomboy
Color: Stone / Army green / Scarlet / Off-white / Baby pink / Caramel / Lime / Orange / Burnt orange / Tan / Mud / Navy / Black / White
Key Items: Oversize flannel trench coats / Shell tops / Biker coats / Neoprene skirts and dresses / Double weave pants, skirts and shorts / Intarsia knits / Cardigans / Tunics / Blouses / Army sweaters / Pleated dresses / Wrap dresses / Knit dresses / Military coats and pants / Quilted coats and bombers / Graphic T-shirts and sweatshirts / Loose, cropped fluted pants
Materials: Flannel / Neoprene / Silk-cotton blend / Angora / Herringbone tweed / Marl knit / Silk / Chiffon
Print + Pattern: Floral filigree / Glen plaid / Paint dribble floral / Chevron / Camouflage / Herringbone tweed / Zig-Zag knits / Floral graphic placement prints
Details + Trim: Pleats / Quilting / Military details / Bow and belt-tie waists / Rolled sleeves and cuffs / Crisscross bow-tie suspenders / Hoods / Blouson sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Loafers / Ankle-tie platform wedges / Booties / Filigree embossed clutches and wallets / Northern Light, Space Bug, Blue Moon, Galaxy, Optimist, Orbit, Atomic and Eclipse sunglasses / Knit hats / Knit and silk scarves / Enamel jewelry / Ankle socks
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