New York: Emerging designer Kaelen Haworth boasts an impressive resume after working for Stella McCartney and Jenni Kayne, but her own designs stand alone following only a year of production. F/W 12 is officially Kaelen’s fifth season and certainly her most developed, with a honed yet substantial presentation centered on texture and pattern. Sheer, featherweight lace mixed with shearling and crackled bronze leather provided glam contrast to nubby bouclé. Delicate repeat patterns appeared via airy chiffon and silk ensembles, from matched trouser sets to floor-length gowns with cutout shoulders. A mixed-print tank with an extended hem was the most interesting in a series of sheaths and columns, while a gorgeous pair of simple bonded lace shorts was the winner in the suiting category. Only two graphic black and white dresses left something to be desired due to their awkward fit — an encouraging scorecard for a fresh designer on the New York roster.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Draped / Relaxed / Cocoon

Color: Dove grey / White / Bronze / Black / Navy / Chocolate / Cream

Key Items: Lace walking shorts / Simple shearling jacket with leather sleeves / Sheer lace dresses / Fluid silk trousers / Sleeveless blouses / Mixed print sheath dresses / Textured leather skirts / Tuxedo jackets / Matched sets / Slim trousers / Cutout shoulder blouses / Bouclé cocoon coats

Materials: Lace / Chiffon / Silk / Laser cut leather / Bouclé / Wool / Shearling / Cotton / Knits

Print + Pattern: Printed lace patterns / Wallpaper prints / Geometric repeats

Details + Trim: Asymmetry / Pleats / Fishtail hems / Zippers / Cutout shoulders

Accessories + Footwear: Bow ties / Pointed pumps


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