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Junya Watanabe

THE ELEGANT REBEL

Paris: Junya Watanabe has a special brilliance for taking clichéd and almost hackneyed inspirations and breathing new life into them. Last spring he explored (and gave unexpected meaning to) the ubiquitous nautical theme, but he had a more rebellious icon in mind for fall: the motorcycle jacket. With his usual clarity of focus, Watanabe confidently reworked the popular item into equally iconic couture shapes, from Christian Dior’s New Look hourglass to Balenciaga’s 60s cocoons. From there, the tough jacket evolved into sleek capes, draped silk dresses and pieced leather pants. Just as impressive as the leathers were the sweaters. In poncho, cardigan and dress form, the cozy knits gave the collection a humble counterpoint and a depth of variety that illustrated, once again, that any inspiration, however over-used, can be invigorated in a master’s hands.

Color: Black / Chocolate / Cognac / Camel

Key Items: Sculpted motorcycle jacket / Circle skirt / Accordion skirt / Skort / Hourglass blazer / Pieced leather leggings / Cape dress / Draped sweater dress / Moto dress / Leather cigarette pants

Print + Pattern: Large leopard

Materials: Leather / Wool crepe / Fur / Crackled patent leather / Shaggy sweater knit / Fine-gauge jersey / Washed silk

Details + Trim: Zippers / Metal snaps

Accessories + Footwear: Black opaque tights / Chelsea boots / Combat boots / Boa scarf / Fur stole

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