Junya Watanabe plays with bold colour and circular piecing

Paris: Like his mentor Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe is a designer who knows how to have fun with fashion – toying with conventional ideas of form and fit. Bold colours were used in Breton-striped sweaters, fine gauge knitwear, cropped and A-line patent leather skirts, and foulard hem skirts. Print was key to the collection and a range of abstract geometrics were shown on dresses and overalls – except for the final looks – open-mouthed emojis appeared to be eating their way through the gridded patterning. Fashion needs a wild card or two and Watanabe offers masterfully created chaos to good effect. – Elle Hankinson

Silhouette: Abstract and sculpted

Key items: Foulard hem patent skirts / Origami overalls / 3-D dresses / Polka dot bubble skirt / Bubble shoulder Breton t-shirt / Patent spliced cape / Geo snowflake top

Colour: Baby pink / Coral red / Candy pink / Cyan blue / Flame orange / Black / White / Grey

Print & Pattern: Abstract geometrics / Oversized polka dots / Breton stripes  / Bold floral print / Digital denim print

Materials & Knits: PVC / Patent leather / Gauze / Crinoline / Leather / Glitter

Footwear: Leather brogue flatforms

Accessories: Blow-up plastic helmets / White ankle socks


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