Junya Watanabe


Paris: Junya Watanabe continued last season’s meditation on the hourglass, loosening up spring’s menswear-inspired suits with a more casual military influence for fall. On the same page as Dries Van Noten’s utilitarian-femme collection shown earlier in the week, Watanabe made the theme his own with a more conceptual approach. In addition to revisiting Dior’s New Look, he also delved further back in time, distilling the petticoat-lined silhouettes of the late 19th century into swingy riding coats and mermaid-flared cargo skirts. Military-issue fabrics in assorted olive drabs, khakis and camouflage motifs were worked into anorak capes, cropped bomber jackets and pencil skirts with rib-knit back panels. The cape, in particular, was a recurring motif, appearing as a wrapped cover-up and as a shoulder-hugging, hooded addition to draped jersey dresses. The rugged fabrics and functional details married perfectly with the curvy, romantic shapes, giving the collection a nostalgic 40s feel while making it wearable, practical and desirable for today.

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