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Junya Watanabe

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WELL SUITED

Following last season’s obsessive deconstruction of the puffer jacket, Junya Watanabe set his sights on the pantsuit for spring. With seams that curved in at the waist and swooped out at the hip, the menswear pieces took on a beautifully feminine hourglass shape. Watanabe first presented the suit as whole, then proceeded to riff on each element — first playing with seams on the jacket, then exploring proportions with the button-up shirt, and finally experimenting with the classic check, which was combined with larger or smaller versions of itself on a single garment or morphed into geometric shapes, as if being distorted by a kaleidoscope. He ended the collection with a parade of perfect black suiting separates, including a simple black minidress constructed with the greatest finesse and mindfulness. While remaining true to his avant garde, brainy roots, Junya Watanabe presented wearable clothing that will appeal to fashion’s quirky elite as well as a much broader audience.

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