Junya Watanabe

Watanabe’s collection was slightly subdued, as the designer showed slim, trim, cropped suits, not unlike Thom Browne’s creations minus the robust cuffs. However, dashes of the designer’s eye for rich allusion and salt-of-the-earth dressing showed through. Hints of the 70s were subtle, but ultimately everywhere. Floral shirts came in mustard and avocado, though the designer gifted them with small collars, as if to take only the best of that era. Chambray blazers, suede-barn coats, and engineer denim car caps showed that despite the suiting, Watanabe still found worker wear crucial. His subdued footwear choices – white canvas topsiders and plain-toe oxfords – looked clean and keep the emphasis on the clothes.  —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: 70s slim

Color: Gunmetal / Dark chocolate / Mustard / Avocado / Carnation / Dove / Black

Key Items: Slim suits with cropped trousers / Pajama blazers / Shorts suits / Floral shirts / Polos and rugby shirts / Double breasted suit coats and blazers / Levi’s collaboration trucker jackets

Materials: Poplin / Summer wool suiting / Chambray / Denim / Duck canvas

Print + Pattern: Summer of Love florals / Windowpane plaid / Flecked grids / Stripes / Tartan / Pinstripes

Details + Trim: Piping and trim / Ultra-high jacket gorges / Oversized lapels / Suede collars / Contrast collar yokes

Accessories + Footwear: Canvas topsiders / Plain-toe oxfords / Car caps


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