Julien Macdonald

London: Julien Macdonald’s F/W 13 was spangly and sexy in the manner typical of the Welsh designer, but although the fare was as body conscious and bold as expected the looks held plenty of interest and fresh ideas for the genre. Opening on long sleeved white minidresses with tangled Jackson Pollack beading and Balmain-style honeycomb webbing, the presentation quickly upped the ante with stimulating citrus hues, illusion panels and guipure lace scattered with sharp, tonal mirrored shards. Abstract floral motifs emerged and the webbing and cutouts continued in the form of macramé weaves, tribal stripes that mimicked woodcuts and traditional scalloped lace edging. Among this clubwear mingled longer gowns with tactically sheer sides reminiscent of Kristen Stewart’s recent red-carpet stunner, the most impressive piece crafted solely from rectangular pailettes—downright minimal by Macdonald’s exuberant standards. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Fitted / Body conscious / Halter / Column

Color: White / Silver / Black / Canary yellow / Tangerine / Cobalt / Emerald / Black / Gold

Key Items: Long sleeved beaded minidresses / Halter dresses with illusion panels / Jumpsuits / Macramé minis / Column gowns with sheer sleeves / Evening dresses constructed from pailettes

Materials: Honeycomb jersey / Lace / Stretch netting / Guipure lace / Macramé / Cotton knits / Lame

Print + Pattern: Basketweave / Stripes / Tribal cutouts / Floral / Zig-zags

Details + Trim: Floral appliqué / Layered beading / Cutouts / Padded shoulders / Abstract Jackson Pollack beading / Sheer panels / Illusion necklines / Sharp mirrored embellishments / Gold chain fringe / Gold embroidery / Contrast trim / Fringe

Accessories + Footwear: Lace up spike heel booties / Industrial leather belts


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