Julien David

Paris: Julien David’s work is always a breath of fresh air on the Paris schedule, his youthful, street-influenced shows something of an anomaly in the high-fashion capital of the world. Last season it was an athletic meets schoolgirl collection full of conversational dinosaur prints and mesh basketball jerseys, but for Fall David’s muse graduated and entered professional life. Cropped jacquard trousers, silk twill blouses with cutout sleeves and elongated menswear coats were reputable, creative office-wear, while the designer’s innovative fabrics maintained his rebellious streak. Shaggy mini-skirt suits in a hand-cut wool had an amusing Swamp Thing vibe and airy embroidered mesh tops floated incongruously over must-have intarsia crewnecks. With an ankle sock-clad foot in both worlds, these looks had a charming, approachable irreverence that left behind the kitsch of David’s previous presentations and broadened his audience.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Boxy / Cropped / Rounded

Color: Navy / Saturated plum / Electric blue / Black / Cherry / White / Coco / Burnished gold / Neutral mushroom tones

Key Items: Puffer coats / Double breasted wool jackets / Boxy mini skirt suits / Intarsia knit crewnecks / Silk twill blouses / Cropped jacquard trousers / Knit sheath dresses / Embroidered mesh tops

Materials: Hand-cut wool / Velvet / Satin / Intarsia knits / Silk twill / Embroidered mesh / Lace / Jacquard / Nylon

Print + Pattern: Abstract splotches / Dots

Details + Trim: Removable collars / Hoods / Contrast trim / Embroidery / Zippers / Mesh cutouts / Quilting

Accessories + Footwear: Ankle socks / Platform peep toe sandals / Puffy leather chain strap handbags / Simple skate sneakers / Flat ankle boots / Abstract metal bib necklaces


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