Jonathan Saunders

London: Jonathan Saunders looked to reflective luxury for F/W 12, crafting slim suiting and a-line dresses from embossed satin and treated silk. In deep tones of chocolate and emerald, jackets and skirts gained added dimension via tonal geometric repeat prints expertly combined with stripes and a mottled, abstract pattern. Metallic hues were low-key and subtle, their shimmer downplayed by pairing yellow-gold with bright aqua, or hiding a reflective chartreuse pleated skirt beneath an oxblood overcoat. At times, the heaviness of these textures and patterns became stifling, but Saunders smartly broke the monotony with sportier ensembles such as striped v-necks, mini-shorts and snappy leather visors. After such savvy choices a series of floral frocks looked out of place, and the collection would been more successful sticking to cleaner grids and checks.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / A-line / Body conscious

Color: White / Chocolate / Emerald / Crimson / White / Dove grey / Gold / Lemon / Lilac / Aqua / Black / Chartreuse / Ice blue / Rust / Plum / Tangerine

Key Items: Patterned silk trousers / Satin suit jackets / Pleated a-line skirts / Slit pencil skirts / Silk shirt dresses / Classic overcoats / Cotton button-ups / Strapless cocktail dresses / Skirt suits / V-neck knit sweaters

Materials: Satin / Silk / Brocade / Leather / Wool / Cotton / Cashmere

Print + Pattern: Marbled prints / Geometric repeats / Stripes / Florals / Checks / Grid patterns

Details + Trim: Miniature quilting / Pleating / Embroidery / Sheer sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Peep-toe pumps / Corset belts / Ankle strap heels / Slim leather belts / Knee-high leather boots


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