Jonathan Saunders

London: Jonathan Saunders swapped his obsession with prints for an exploration of intarsia knits for Pre-Fall, but this doesn’t mean he abandoned his love of pattern. In fact, the collection only added a new textural element to Saunders’ typically rich work, layering geometric repeats together for a mesmerizing effect. But the clash of color and pattern was never overwhelming due to the focus on simple items such as sheath dresses, straight skirts and crewnecks, daytime separates which were wearable though never minimal. An unusual and retro palette enhanced each motif, creating a sunny and warm mood with a mix of saffron, tangerine and chartreuse broken by touches of aquamarine and ice blue. Saunders’ hemlines worked best cut above the knee, as a few longer dresses seemed dowdy with such heavy textures and intricate patterns.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Boxy / Hourglass / Fit and flare

Color: Aquamarine / Black / Tangerine / Mustard / Lemon / White / Peach / Chocolate / Grey / Poppy / Ice blue / Chartreuse / Burgundy

Key Items: Colorblocked sheath dresses / Simple cropped jackets / Pleated skirts / Intarsia knit crewnecks / Cardigans / Patterned overcoats / Slim trousers / Silk blouses / Straight skirts

Materials: Intarsia knits / Silk / Brocade / Waffle knits

Print + Pattern: Plaid / Checks / Geometrics

Details + Trim: Colorblocking / Pleating / Self-belts / Contrast collars / Sheer panels / Contrast piping / Covered buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Skinny leather belts / Ankle boots / Barrettes

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