May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: For a designer who has relied to heavily on prints in seasons past, Jonathan Saunders’s fall collection was a departure. Many of the looks were motif-free, and those that weren’t used patent leather or fabric appliqués or laser cutouts to create their patterns. Shades of the 1940s could be seen in the prim sweaters, boxy jackets, and sweet A-line dresses, but 1970s-style earth tones took it all to a different place. Alluring bustier details and narrow straps were a nod to vintage lingerie, but the real seduction appeared with look 7, a chocolate brown patent leather bustier dress that was very va-va-voom. The patent leather returned throughout the rest of the collection, often juxtaposed with incongruous materials, such as baby pink faux fur, burnout velvet, and delicate lace. It was all about the contradictions for Saunders this season, and the juxtapositions – 40s and 70s, patent leather and lace – made for a beautiful collection. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Dropped flounce / A-line / Hourglass / Boxy / Oversized
Color: Olive / Mustard / Cinnamon / Butternut / Sage / Chocolate brown / Black / Charcoal / Caution orange / Tan / Sky blue / Baby pink / Ivory / Bright red / Carnation / Aqua
Key Items: Patent leather dresses / Coats with leather flower appliqués / Full skirts / Boxy jackets / Slouchy sweaters
Materials: Felted wool / Brushed wool / Patent leather / Cotton broadcloth / Filmy lace / Burnout velvet / Tweed / Furry pile
Print + Pattern: Gradated stripes / Vintage florals
Details + Trim: Fabric and leather flower appliqués / Rectangular paillettes / Bustier details / Double-breasted closures / Deep V-necks / Patent leather attached corsets
Accessories + Footwear: Skinny belts / Ankle-strap pumps / Ankle-laced peep-toes / Ankle-laced round-toe pumps
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