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John Varvatos

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SOFT ROCK

Milan: Just as with many other designers on Milan Fashion Week’s first day, John Varvatos chose to soften the hard edge which has gained him the adoration of his rocker wannabe fans. The world of rock has been a cornerstone of the Varvatos brand for the past decade, and this season the designer claimed to be inspired by a group of musicians on a country holiday — urbane sophistication coexisting with relaxed ease. A palette of moody grays and blues, as well as chocolate brown, added to the subdued scene. Models wore trim yet relaxed-fitting pants rolled up to their knees along with wrinkled jackets and cardigans, all in super-washed fabrics and heavily-weathered surfaces; raw edges underscored the feeling of artisan tailoring. A softened windowpane plaid suit was styled in a casual way, sans tie. The summer Fair Isle cardigan in linen was a standout piece for the designer, who usually favors all-season leather. In the show notes, Varvatos explained his soft and weightless ensembles: “Layering is a key theme, and is often rendered in unexpected ways: a shirt bottom attached to a vest; facing creating a layer on jacket’s collars and lapels. As ever, perfect imperfection is the keyword. With a well-deserved, and much-needed dash of romance.”

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