May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE CUTOUT TAILOR
Milan: John Richmond concentrates on tailoring in his collections, often focusing on fitted jackets and cotton shirting. For S/S 13 he updated these items with nipped waists and padded shoulders as well as poet sleeves and mesh panels. Digitized florals added dimension to sateen trousers while linear honeycomb shapes, a common detail this season, looked fresh as gold embroidery or perforated leather. In fact, all manner of cutouts ran throughout Richmond’s presentation, from teardrops edged by nailhead studs to sheer chiffon panels and sleeves. Mostly sticking to black and white, the collection would have benefited from a further exploration of color, particularly a punchy orange-red which enlivened a classic slim trench.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Body conscious / A-line / Hourglass
Color: White / Black / Cobalt / Cherry red / Dove grey
Key Items: Nipped waist jackets / Peplum tops / Tab front skinny trousers / Cutout leather mini dresses / Cummerbund trousers / Crisp cotton shirting / Bubble dresses / Cotton blouson jackets / Satin track skirts
Materials: Perforated leather / Sateen / Crisp cotton / Mesh / Organza / Sheer chiffon
Print + Pattern: Oversized geometrics / Digitized florals / Sharp mirrored leaf prints / Checks / Hand-drawn pinstripes
Details + Trim: Studs / Strong shoulders / Fringe / Cutouts / Poet sleeves / Padded shoulders / Ruffles / Paillettes
Accessories + Footwear: Oversized cat eye sunglasses / Strappy platform sandals / Caged ankle boots / Charm necklaces / Drop earrings
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