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John Galliano

PRIM + PERVERSE

Paris: John Galliano’s fall collection summed up his design aesthetic (and perhaps his personality) perfectly: proper on the outside, a little perverse on the inside, and chockfull of drama. His usual nods to 1930s glam were there: statuesque bias-cut dresses, prim tweed suits, sumptuous fur-trimmed robes. However, all was not what it seemed, and one only had to take a closer look to see traces of Galliano’s twisted sense of humor. Pumps were detailed with shackles and buckles (of course with a sprinkling of crystals on top), Dior-esque “bar” jackets and pencil skirts had cutouts and bondage-y ties in the back, and a latex piece or two accompanied the ladylike ensembles. Although the controversial designer is now tucked away in a rehab facility thousands of miles away from Paris, and his return is uncertain, his larger-than-life personality and flair for the theatrical were definitely felt at this show and will be felt in fashion for a long time to come.

Color: Lilac / Hot coral / Iris / Pine green / Sharp seafoam

Key Items: Pencil skirt / “Bar” jacket / Bow blouse / Cardi-coat / Swing coat / Quilted smoking jacket / Robe dress / Toga dress

Print + Pattern: Houndstooth / Pucci-esque geos / Flocked paisley / Wispy florals

Materials: Tweed / Latex / Organza / Silk crepe / Embroidered chiffon

Details + Trim: Back ties and cutouts / Fur / Ribbon appliqués / Lace / Feathers / Jet beading

Accessories + Footwear: Shackle pumps / Multi-chain belt / Fur fascinators / Hair combs / Floppy fedora

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View Runway Video

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