John Galliano

Paris: Twisting, shirring and a more modern cut were Bill Gaytten’s main messages for F/W 13, the collection another confident step away from his predecessor’s bombastic style and an effective exploration of the “disciplined silhouette” he described in the show notes. Jackets and outerwear were particularly special, comprised of folded little jackets with nipped waists and wide strap closures or sleek, elongated coats with round shoulders and no collars or closures at all. Separates featured the most texture—draped tops came with tonal, braided cord or wide fringe, silk tunics were shirred and wrinkled, while Gaytten’s most experimental bottom, a pair of wide culottes, was pleated and voluminous. Fall’s prints looked freshly unconventional too, harnessing an artsy energy through splatters, ombré and blurred oval dots, each design adding a layer of interest to this expressive and poised presentation. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Nipped waist / Slim / Wide / Pleated

Color: Dusty plum / Black / Navy / Electric blue / Vibrant crimson / White / Jersey gray / Fuchsia / Sage

Key Items: Slim cropped trousers / Fold front jackets / Shirred front silk tunics / Soft culottes / Gathered pencil skirts / Wide sleeve shell tops / Knit cape tops / Draped and shirred silk tops / Modern rectangular kimono coats / Silk tunic dresses

Materials: Shirred silk / Modern tweed blends / Satin / Space dye knits / Shaved mink / Astrakhan fur / Rose motif jacquard / Felted wool

Print + Pattern: Abstract paint splatter / Ombré / Oval dots / Silhouette motifs / Rose motifs

Details + Trim: Folds / Pleats / Wide strap closures / Shirring / Wide kimono sleeves / Fringe / Woven cords / Woven embossing treatments / Ribbing

Accessories + Footwear: Sharp stiletto ankle boots / Leather gloves / Brimmed caps / Opaque hosiery / Tall shaft boots


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