4 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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TURN UP THE VOLUME
Paris: Formerly John Galliano’s right hand man, Bill Gaytten inherited design duties at both Galliano’s signature label and Christian Dior after his boss’s unceremonious removal. The roles were extraordinarily daunting, and though there were bright moments, many fashion followers were underwhelmed with his collections. With Dior now under Raf Simons’ direction, Gaytten is left to focus on John Galliano, and the funneling of his efforts paid off this season. Gaytten offered outsized volume and expert draping, making for an exciting show. Origami folding and kimono elements connected with the Japanese theme that has appeared again and again this season. Though the clothes may have lacked Galliano’s theatricality, Gaytten’s work was strong and appealing. It seems the designer may finally be coming into his own. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Voluminous / Oversized / Cocoon / A-line
Color: Black / Lilac / Canteloupe / White / Teal / Citron / Grey / Pale yellow / Navy / Bright blue
Key Items: Oversized pants / Tunics / Draped dresses / Kimono jackets / Billowy skirts
Materials: Taffeta / Tulle / Silk faille / Firm silks / Crinkly silks
Print + Pattern: Parking lots and skyscrapers / Flying figures
Details + Trim: Draping / Folding / Tying / Ruffles / Pleats / Oversized lapels / Off-the-shoulder necklines / Asymmetrical hemlines / Layering
Accessories + Footwear: Large tulle or feather hats / Ankle boots
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