John Galliano


Paris: For Fall, Bill Gaytten went with familiar Galliano inspiration, historicism and romanticism. The designer imagined an “aristocratic heiress at large on her estate,” which translated into dramatic capes, fox fur sleeves and healthy dose of ruffles. Adding a bit of modernity (vintage modernity, that is), elements of 1940s fashion seamlessly worked into the collection — accordion pleat skirts, capelet jackets and silky thigh-high stockings. The effect had a romantically tailored appeal, and certain looks — hourglass silhouettes, bias-cut chiffon, capelets — seemed to waver between the two themes.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: 1940s-inspired

Color:  Black / Gold / Mustard / Khaki / Apricot / Pumpkin / Cerulean / Powder Blue

Key Items:  Ruffle neck blouse / Bias chiffon dress / Full carrot pants / Capelet jacket / Blanket cocoon coat

Materials: Chiffon / Silk / Taffeta / Wool suiting / Blanket wovens / Velvet / Leather scales / Fox fur

Print + Pattern: Aubrey Beardsley-inspired motifs / Windowpane checks / Blurry blanket stripes

Details + Trim: Ruffle necklines / Accordion pleats / Ruffles / Fur sleeves + trim / Capelet details / Pussy bows  /Contrast waistbands / Self-belts

Accessories + Footwear: Sheer thigh-highs + silky ribbed hosiery / Opera gloves / Pheasant feather-trimmed Renaissance-style hats / Platforms — lace-up + high vamp booties


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