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John Galliano

NOIR REPRODUCTION
Paris: John Galliano designer Bill Gaytten stuck close to the label’s established aesthetic for Pre-Fall, choosing old-school glamour with a noir sensibility. With a very literal presentation inspired by Tippi Hedren in Hitchcock’s The Birds, Gaytten even projected a menacing shadowy aviary behind his model, providing window dressing for neat skirt suits, pintucked dresses, lace inset blouses and a-line cashmere princess coats. In fact, the look was so complete it became a period piece, slightly too retro for its own good. Luckily, a few items broke the referential mood, such as a floor length pleated lamé skirt, slim lurex trousers and crocodile jacquard mini, but even those ensembles could have lost the contrived headscarves and long leather gloves.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Hourglass / Fit and flare / Slim

Color: Cherry red / Black / Bright lemon / Silver / Gunmetal / White / Oxblood

Key Items: Skirt suits / Asymmetric draped overcoats / Pleated miniskirts / Slim turtlenecks / Cropped pleated trousers / Silk blouses / Layered chiffon gowns / Pintucked dresses / A-line trench coats

Materials: Wool / Cashmere / Silk / Brocade / Fur / Lace / Tweed / Lamé / Lurex / Crocodile jacquard / Chiffon

Print + Pattern: Checks / Polka dots

Details + Trim: Contrast piping / Sweetheart necklines / Asymmetry / Pleats / Sheer panels / Ruffles / Fur collars / Pintucking / Beading / Draping

Accessories + Footwear: Oversize clutches / Wide leather belts / Sheer hosiery / Patent leather gloves / Headscarves / Lace-up boots / High heeled loafers / Crocodile clutches / Suede pumps / Metallic sandals

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