May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Jo No Fui’s F/W 13 collection has many of the hallmarks of Italian luxury: Sumptuous calfskin and furs, earthy shades of camel and chocolate and cozy cashmere. But the clothes themselves—patchwork leather separates, clean satin cocoon dresses, and deconstructed biker jackets—are more in step with a downtown New Yorker or a Left Bank Parisienne and put the label in the same hemisphere as Acne or 3.1 Philip Lim. Architect-turned-fashion-designer Alessia Giacobino established her label more than a decade ago and opened an Italian flagship in 2010, but it’s this collection that will likely get her noticed from Brooklyn to Berlin. — Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Layered / Motorcycle / Utility
Color: Black / Chocolate / Baby Pink / Shades of gray—from dove to slate to concrete / Camel / Navy / Oxblood / Biscuit / Rust / Umber / Scarlet / Indigo
Key Items: Cropped leather pants / Ribbed oversize cashmere sweaters / Deconstructed leather & jersey biker jackets / Motorcycle vests / Satin cocoon mini dresses / Bateau neck dresses / Fur coats & tunics / Tops & skirts with zipper pouch pockets / Patchwork leather separates / Rhinestone-embossed leather separates / Camel cashmere coats / Wool jumpsuits
Materials: Leather / Fur / Satin / Flannel / Lurex / Jersey / Cashmere
Print + Pattern: Gold rhinestone studded grid and abstract patterns / Color blocks
Details + Trim: Zippers / Zipper pouch pockets / Fur trim / Halternecks / Elasticized hems / Fluted sleeves / Deep V necklines / Bateau necks / Color block panels / Color block fur / Wing back details
Accessories + Footwear: Pointed leather ankle boots / Gold rings
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