May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Inspired by Stella Tennant and other cool Brit girls, Jill Stuart’s F/W 13 collection mixed classic English looks with a hip and tough downtown vibe. Flared above-knee skirts and crisp white collars and cuffs peeking out from snug sweaters channeled a prim and perverse prep school uniform. Black wool capes, cobweb-like lace, brocade dresses and vampy nails pushed the schoolgirl in a darker, more witchy direction. Stuart went on to introduce bold mitered stripes, flouncy dresses in oxblood and scarlet hues, and floral cutouts into the black-based collection. Metallic gold was stamped onto black netting for holiday-ready party frocks; slept-in, ratty hair made sure it remained edgy and cool throughout.
Silhouette: Fit-and-flare / Peplummed / Drop-waist / Trapeze
Color: Black / Deep navy / Crisp white / Black and gold / Oxblood
Key Items: Fit-and-flare dress / Bow blouse / Slim pants / Capes of all kinds
Materials: Lace / Crisp cotton / Lacquered raffia / Velvet / Laser-cut wool felt / Jacquard floral silks with dimensional flower appliqués / Curly fur
Print + Pattern: Mitered stripes / Cutout florals / Gold-stamped flowers and dots / Folkloric floral
Details + Trim: White collars and cuffs / Felt appliqués on mesh / Velvet taping — flat and ruched / Halter necklines / Harness effects / Peplums / Contoured seams
Accessories + Footwear: Round-toed Mary-Janes and T-straps in velvet or patent, often with anklestraps
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