Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Juxtaposing the simplified, clean lines of the Jil Sander aesthetic with deconstructed elements inspired by Michelangelo Antonioni’s explosive cult 70s film Zabriskie Point — which played on a screen as the background of the show — Raf Simons created garments that seemed perfectly tailored, then destroyed and re-worked. A black linen sheath had irregular bits of fabric tacked on, which curled over to expose a white underside, creating an effect that looked like paint peeling off a wall. The bottom half of tailored linen and silk jackets became aprons to wear over short shorts or filmy trousers. Engineered knits received similar deconstructed treatments, and a coatdress had a raw-edged slit that seemed roughly cut with dull scissors. The palette was composed of subtle neutrals reflecting the film’s desert setting, enlivened by iridescent mineral blues and petrol greens for simple shift dresses that appeared later in the show.
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