Jil Sander : Underground Utility

Milan: For his second season, designer Rodolfo Paglialunga really made his mark on the Jil Sander brand. The minimalist, clean aesthetic of the house still remained, but this season Paglialunga bought to it an urban beauty – a younger, sexier appeal. “Utility” he surmised, which was somewhat of an understatement; an abundance of pockets, straps, reflective tape – functionality formed in slim and compact silhouettes. Patched and patterned fabrics in futuristic patterns added a modern geometric quality to simple shapes. Though it was the materials that stood out this season: protective materials; parachute nylon, coated canvases, waxed cottons, PVC- everyday items were elevated in these unusual, almost slightly perverse (in a good way!) fabrics. Stiff, rubbery, sinister; the fusion of these fabrications on everyday staples injected a new personality into the clothes. The closing look of an oversized rubberized anorack stood out as a must have – and was even welcomed by round of applause from the audience! – Anna Ross

Theme: Underground Utility

Key Items:  Lightweight trench, Bermuds shorts suit, Oversize anorak, Patched polo, Cropped jeans, Leather suit

Colour: Stone, Olive, Pewter, Khaki, Aubergine, Iridescent blue, Black, Off cream

Materials and Trims: Parachute nylon, Coated canvas, Denim, PVC, Cotton, Waxed cotton, Leather, Jacquard

Print and Pattern: Japanese florals

Accessories and Footwear: Sensible lace ups, Bucket bags, Briefcase

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