Jil Sander


Milan: For S/S 12, Raf Simons recalled various fragments of post-war sartorial codes and reworked them back together for a hyper-modern collection that suggested it was more about the process itself, rather than the results. The designer chose not to focus attention on his seasonal hybrids, instead letting clashing elements fight for attention on the garments. Tailored clothing was suctioned close to the body or hung off it entirely. Shorts allowed for more leg than usual to show, but were worn under thick sweaters and the oiled surfaces of eel-skin blazers or plastic and nylon rainwear. With slicked-back hair and sporty bags worn around their necks (that Simons called “urban scout gear”),  the models looked like British schoolboys from the future caught in a summer downpour. The palette moved away from the bold color of seasons past — the designer used blackened brown, aubergine and an ultra-dark green that read as black. Pops of optimistic hues came from marled sweaters, and printed woven shirts had a shiny techno appeal. The collection’s proportions continue to look new and innovative, and the intellectual pastiche behind the designs help to move the brand forward for many seasons ahead.  —Michael Fisher

Color: Techno black / Aubergine / Bottle green / Raspberry / Copper orange

Key Items: Nylon rain coats / High-waisted and pleated shorts / Three-button blazer / Boxy woven tees / Marled sweaters / Openworked sweaters

Materials: Plastic / Nylon / Cotton / Exotic skins like python and eel / Silk

Details + Trim: Boxy silhouettes / Transparent layers / High button stance on tailored jackets / High-waisted shorts and pants / Relaxed and cropped fits / Contrast collars

Accessories + Footwear: Snakeskin bags / Plastic “urban scout gear” neck-bags / Chunky sole lace-up Oxfords

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