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Jil Sander

RIGOROUS ABSTRACTION
Milan: Beginning with a parade of head-to-toe white ensembles, like an army of high-end aestheticians, Raf Simons’ Spring collection moved swiftly into the bold, clean prints he has popularized over the past few seasons. Paisley received the minimalist treatment this time, with curly graphic lines contrasted against crisp white or black. Later, pattern became more of an abstraction as the silhouette loosened, with plaid adding dimension to ethereal sheer sleeves and overskirts. Pale gingham climbed from the picnic to the boardroom via slim suiting. Knit tops emblazoned with hand-drawn melting faces paid a direct homage to Picasso, and veiled skullcaps designed in collaboration with Stephen Jones gave a witty nod to the street. Finally, although Simons’ delved into the surrealism and humor of the early 60s, his signature rigor remained present to the collection’s closing looks; full-skirted white cotton dresses tailor-made for a modernist wedding.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Slim / Lean / A-line / Fitted

Color: Navy / White / Forest green / Rose / Pastel blue / Black / Lavender / Aqua / Hot pink / Yellow

Key Items: Coat dresses / Mid-calf skirts / Shorts suits / Column dresses / Fitted blouses / Patterned suit jackets / Shrunken sweaters / Shirt dresses

Materials: Jersey / Cotton / Crochet knits / Chiffon / Poplin / Intarsia knits

Print + Pattern: Paisley / Gingham / Plaid

Details + Trim: Buttons / Bows / Crystals / Ribbing

Accessories + Footwear: Patent leather pumps / Clutches / Knit skull caps / Mod boots / Lattice work ankle strap heels

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