Jil Sander


Milan:  Set in an underground garage, Raf Simons’ collection, comprised almost entirely of black leather, channeled a cast of subversive (and perhaps dangerous?) characters. Looks in  head-to-toe black included generously-cut trenchcoats and super-boxy car coats in leather or lustrous nylon, shown layered over sleek, and precisely tailored wool suits. All-leather looks had a feel of protection, with suits and separates — crewnecks paired with roomy pants — providing impenetrable coverage. Simons, always eager to introduce an element of intellect, made a comment on “man versus child,” with the bizarre addition of colorful sailor collars and cutesy animal intarsias serving as a juxtaposition of innocence against all the pervading toughness. For accessories, the theme carried on though handheld bags in the style of paper lunch sacks.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Precise + Oversized

Color: Black-on-black / White / Hunter Green / Caramel

Key Items: Oversized trenchcoat / Boxy Car Coat / Slim Suit — Double or Single-breasted

Materials: Leather / Lustrous Nylon  / Wool Suiting / Cotton Shirting / Fine Cashmere Knits

Details + Trim: Quirky cartoon + animal intarsias / Sailor collars

Accessories + Footwear: Leather gloves / Skinny ties / Leather paper sack-style handhelds

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