3 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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Milan: Raf Simons’ fall collection for Jil Sander mixed the ebullient tones and couture elements of spring with his signature precision, making for an appealing middle ground. Tapered-leg pants and tailored button-up shirts were a return to form, while cocoon silhouettes (some bolstered with padding) and skirts with exaggerated pleats conjured the work of Cristobal Balenciaga, a key reference this season. Spring’s vibrant palette made a comeback, giving even the more serious pieces a sense of lightness, and a retro floral print was a surprise vintage element amid all the sculptural modernity.
Color: Vibrant brights – pink, red, yellow / Mustard / Teal / Navy / Grey / Chocolate brown / Black
Key Items: Tapered-leg pants / Cocoon dresses / Boxy tops / Graphic sweaters
Materials: Wool suitings / Taffeta / Stiff satin / Medium-gauge yarns / Velvet / Cotton shirtings / Padded fabrics
Details + Trim: Attached hoods / Self-belts / Stand collars / Jewel necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Platform buckle boots / Platform lace-up booties / Hard-case satchels / Envelope clutches / Ladylike handbags
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