Jil Sander


Milan: What happens when a minimalist experiments with maximalism? Jil Sander’s Raf Simons looked to the extravagance of couture for inspiration this season, focusing on proportion. Balenciaga-esque volume appeared for dresses – some in quirky wide stripes or punchy photorealistic florals, and contrast peplums added an ironic-elegant touch. The tee-shirt-with-ball-skirt look from the 1990s was stripped down to plain white or black tees and skirts with more subdued volume than the originals. Simons returned to more comfortable territory for the last half of the show, with structured shifts – some enlivened with optic stripes – and tailored separates and tech-y raincoats in screaming brights. These more pared down pieces were more visually appealing and more wearable, but the designer’s experimentations were an interesting development, demonstrating Simons’ ever-evolving style.

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