Jil Sander



Milan: Taking a break from the runways in Milan, Raf Simons took it on the road for S/S 11 by becoming the guest designer for the Pitti Uomo tradeshow in Florence. Against the dramatic backdrop of the gardens at a hillside Tuscan villa, the collection’s vivid colors glowed against the nighttime sky. Siting nature’s “chaotic palette” as his inspiration, the intense nearly-neon hues were used in clashing combos to create a synthetic garden, perfectly choreographed to the show’s techno soundtrack. Vividly saturated knits, cotton pants and outerwear shared the runway with multi-colored stripes; packed or over-scaled florals were printed on both woven shirts and jersey tees. Inky black suits and jackets were trimmed in reflective tape on lapels, backs and pockets, while classic dress shoes had electric-bright soles. The densely flower-printed long-sleeved tees were visible under belted jackets and coats with sleeves rolled up, creating a kind of tattoo effect on models’ arms. Overall, the techno attitude of Simons’ minimalist silhouettes felt retro and modern at once, and remained true to his uniform aesthetic of so many seasons.

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