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Jil Sander

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THE NEW POWER DRESSING

Milan: Inspired by the seemingly incongruent heroines of the films Tomb Raider: Lara Croft and The September Issue, Jil Sander’s Raf Simons created a collection around the idea of the powerful women. The result was a little bit sci-fi and a little bit sophisticated, but it worked. Hints of Angelina Jolie’s action-video character emerged in the tight knit shorts, filmy sheer skirts and aggressively tailored jackets, and Ms. Wintour’s touch appeared in the checked suits, slim sheaths and coats that fit impeccably. Sometimes the two forces collided, as in a plaid tunic with slashed sides worn with matching slim pants. Though Simons knit short-alls were an unflattering miss, tweedy versions worked well as contemporary interpretations of the classic suit. The use of multiple patterns seemed a new turn for the designer, but the cuts were true to his aesthetic, and to Sander’s — minimal and flawless.

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