May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Jil Sander’s work is undoubtedly modern, but the designer’s feminine silhouettes always elevate her shows above dispassionate minimalism. Following up on a curvaceous return to her label in September, Sander’s F/W 13 presentation settled into a soft groove, expanding from nipped waist dresses with exaggerated hips to include easy halter sheaths and below-the-knee skirts with flowing, asymmetric hems. Inverse pleats and off-center flaps also created a sense of movement, while molded felt shell tops and tunics had an approachable rigor. Fall’s sweaters, including a fuzzy plaid mohair crew as well as ribbed pieces with elegant bands of gold foil, are sure to be bestsellers. Of course, Sander also provided plenty of the tailored menswear coats her fans love, updated with stripes of color, ponyhair or cropped sleeves, but punky, pointed Chelsea boots and heeled pilgrim booties were a fresh departure—unusual footwear infusing just the right amount of spunk into this engaging collection. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Nipped waist / Hourglass / Soft a-line / Halter / Long rectangle
Color: Navy / Chocolate with wine overtones / Russian blue / Shark grey / Black / Cobalt / Tangerine / Deep wine / Navy / Gold / Canary yellow
Key Items: Menswear overcoats / Below-the-knee day dresses / Intarsia knit sweaters / Refined leather kilt skirts / Wide sleeve cropped jackets / Short sleeved molded hourglass coats / Pencil skirts with soft asymmetric hems / Short sleeve shell tops / Slim cropped trousers
Materials: Cashmere / Felt / Leather / Mohair / Knitted furs / Ponyskin
Print + Pattern: Abstract stripes / Soft fuzzy plaid / Small colorblock accents
Details + Trim: Kimono sleeves / Gathered cuffs / Pleating / Flap pockets / Contrast trim / Gold foil bands
Accessories + Footwear: Wide velvet corset belts / High-heeled Pilgrim loafers / Simple handheld satchels with arm straps / Metallic wedge heels / Pointy Chelsea boots with buckle straps / Transparent angular sunglasses with gradient lenses / Cracked leather handbags
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