May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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FAREWELL TO FEMME
Milan: Raf Simons made pastels edgy last season by striking a careful and progressive balance between ladylike formality and streetwise modernity, ideas which resonated across many runways for Spring. F/W 12 is the designer’s final collection for Jil Sander, a surprise announcement which infused the presentation with import and anticipation for those seeking an evolution of Simons’ confident, sophisticated femininity. Outerwear directly followed Spring’s trajectory, with retro three-quarter sleeve styles in double-faced cashmere serving as voluminous cover-ups for the delicate dresses beneath. Baby blue and pink mixed seamlessly with dove grey and white, while shimmering nudes and camel were a monochromatic fusion with bare skin. Full skirts or knee-length slips balanced fitted turtlenecks, simple bustiers and clingy popcorn knit tops; body-conscious elements highlighting the shoulders and clavicle. But it wasn’t all dreamy vintage fluidity; Simons wrapped things up with triumphant bite, showing bold pops of crimson, shiny spaghetti strap cocktail dresses, as well as dramatically gathered and crumpled PVC gowns scored to a standing ovation.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: A-line / Body-skimming / Fluid / Fitted / Slim / Full
Color: Camel / Pastel pink / Navy / Baby blue / White / Blush / Nude / Creamy yellow / Black / Poppy / Silver / Dove grey
Key Items: Blanket coats / Strapless light silk dresses / Sheer knit tops with corset boning / Round overcoats / Full calf-length skirts / Skinny knit turtlenecks / Spaghettti-strap tank dresses / Gathered pencil skirts / Bustier dresses
Materials: Double-faced cashmere / Silk / Chiffon / Popcorn knits / Satin / PVC / Wool / Chiffon
Details + Trim: Contrast lapels / Three-quarter sleeves / Cutouts / Pleats / Draping / Gathering / Boning / Sheer panels
Accessories + Footwear: Delicate ankle strap pumps / Simple envelope clutches / Thin-strap sandals / Leather satchels
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