Jan 10, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Milan: Pre-Fall provided Jil Sander fans a glimpse of what American collegiate means to Belgian designer Raf Simons, with a fantasy of classic Ivy-league signifiers like letterman jackets and stadium coats. In a retro tableux, Simons imagined his muse lounging about a sorority house in tunics embroidered with coded messages or wrapped up in her boyfriend’s oversized cardigan. Although tops and outerwear were decidedly borrowed from the boys, the designer matched casual knitwear with skirts and delicate heels to achieve a demure, throwback femininity concerned with poise and manners. Dresses were long sleeved and covered up, with hemlines frozen at the knee or below, but the effect was sophisticated rather than prissy, due to Simons’ stripped down approach and lack of embellishment. Though less groundbreaking than his pastel Spring collection, Pre-Fall still filtered vintage through Simons’ creatively modern lens. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Fitted / Lean / Oversized / Hourglass
Color: Camel / Forest green / Black / Ivory / Cranberry / Grey / Cherry / Cobalt / Navy / Emerald
Key Items: Satin jackets / Camel overcoats / Tulip skirts / Hooded stadium jackets / Pencil skirts / Crewneck sweaters / Oversized cardigans / Full skirts / Princess coats / Slim trousers / Satin blazers / Raglan sleeve jersey knits
Materials: Satin / Wool / Felt / Silk / Gabardine / Space dye knits / Jersey knits
Print + Pattern: Word graphics / Houndstooth / Stripes
Details + Trim: Embroidered lettering / Hoods / Toggle closures
Accessories + Footwear: Stiletto heels / Patent leather embroidered bowling bags / Knee high leather wedge boots / Sling back kitten heels / Leather frame bags / Slim clutches
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