May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Jeremy Laing makes clothes for the downtown girl who likes a little bit of romance and quirk. The basic silhouette is there – skinny pant, oversized top, little jacket – but what he does so effectively is play with color and texture. A few monochromatic looks in the Fall collection were particularly illustrative of his command of material, mixing stonewashed denim, cupro, jersey and parachute nylons into something far more compelling than the all-black uniform. In this case, the colors echoed the warm glow of fall, from the rustic notes of Joseph Beuys red to the vibrancy of pollen yellow. An innovative collage of proportions ran alongside the texture play, the newly essential tunic serving as centerpiece and swing-back coats Cristóbal Balenciaga would be jealous of acting as protection. The layers had a weightless quality – the word “wind” popped up several times in the show notes – which made a strong case for trans-seasonal dressing. Oftentimes, what looks interesting on the runways turns to caricature on the streets; however, judging from the chic, adoring crowd, these clothes should translate quite well.—Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Trapeze / Stacked / Long and languid
Color: Dusty rose / Beuys red / Pollen / Cloud blue / Stardust gold / Shades of white
Key Items: “Wind” shirtdress / Funnel tee / Slit tunic / Chalet sweater / “Camp” pullover / Quilted pants / Front-slit skirt / Swing-back coat / Boxy bomber
Materials: Cupro / Laminated seersucker / Gesso cotton / Jersey-bonded twill / Sanded crepe / Needle-punched marled knits / Chiffon-bonded jersey / Stonewashed denim / Parachute nylons
Print + Pattern: Blocked “cross-hatch” motifs inspired by the art of Vanessa Maltese
Details + Trim: Funnel necks / Slash pockets / Slits / Bugle beads
Accessories + Footwear: Soft loop-and-tuck belt / Suede booties / Cutout glass necklace
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