May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Jean-Pierre Braganza cited “sacred geometry, samurai, and Frank Herbert’s Dune” as influences behind his current collection. The geometric references were the most immediately visible, appearing in prints on the majority of the pieces in the show. Photorealistic dystopian scenes, recalling Dune, appeared later. One had to look a little closer to recognize the Japanese elements, however. Sleeves were slightly widened, suggesting kimonos, and self-belts were used to cinch in the waists of tunics. There was also a general feeling of austerity and sparseness that seemed very Japanese. Shades of grey, black, and optic white connected with Braganza’s futuristic aesthetic, but he added richness with sapphire and emerald tones. Simple printed shifts and boxy button-up shirts were the most approachable pieces of the collection and should sell well, while floor-sweeping skirts and gowns were more dramatic and directional. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long and lean / Boxy / Easy hourglass / Long layers
Color: Black / Charcoal / Optic white / Slate / Inky blues / Fiery orange / Melon / Sapphire / Emerald
Key Items: Printed shifts / Boxy button-up shirts / Floor-length column skirts / Belted tunics
Materials: Filmy silks / Leather / Lustrous satin / Matte silk crepe / Fine-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Sacred geometry motifs / Dystopian scenes / Ombré / Color blocking
Details + Trim: Kimono sleeves / Self-belts / Sharp shoulders / Rounded sleeves / Draping
Accessories + Footwear: Mixed metal necklaces on silk rope / Platform strappy sandals / Ankle boots / Open-toe platform boots
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